I think the crapiness that was going on was all centered in Jodhpur, I just needed to get out of that vortex. From the time I entered Jaisalmer Fort everything has been way better. Jaisalmer is different from other cities in Rajastan in that private homes existed within the fort and most of these are now hotels but about 5,000 families still live in the fort as well, most of whom are occupied in the tourist trade.
I went to a guest house that a bunch of people had recommended, including my guide book but they didn't have any available rooms. I absolutley needed WiFi that evening so had to pick a place that could provide it to me. We tried their sister property next door which was pretty shabby and luckily the signal didn't reach. He walked me over to the hotel bordering his other side and from one of the rooms I could get full signal. Unfortunately that room was a beautiful two bedroom, one sitting room, two bathroom suite. That's a bit out of my price range. He called the owner, pleaded my case, and got it for me for less than $15 for the night on the promise that I don't turn on the AC. I wholehearted recommend the Surja and Rangmandir Hotels.
I took a much needed shower and washed all my clothes (with great guilt.) All the guide books, as well as the Indian government recommend travelers don't stay at guest houses within the fort because the drainage systems can't handle the water from all the tourists and it's destroying the foundations of the fort. But it's very cool being in the fort and the people here are actually really great.
I took my laptop back next door to the rooftop restaurant and surfed the net and drank beer with some cool tourists as the sun set. I slept very contentedly that night. A bit of kindness and pleasant surroundings really help put things back in place.
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