Saturday, May 7, 2011

Temporal and Spiritual Achievement

The Hari Mandir Shahib (Golden Temple) is a true showcase of Sikh magnificence and generosity. I went in expecting to see a temple capped in gold but found that this place is so much more than that. It is a truly pure place.

The temple itself is majestic. It is situated in the contemplative Amrit Sarovar (Pool of Nectar.) The surrounding structures of the entire complex are all beautiful. Glorious live music is performed over the loudspeakers from within the temple all day and night. But what makes this place truly special is Sewa. The notion that service to mankind is service to God is embodied beautifully here. The whole place is maintained by volunteers and it is an honor to be allowed to serve in any way. People blissfully mop floors and I was allowed to participate by washing dishes.

The Israeli couple woke me up at 3:30AM to meet a Punjabi teenager who came to show us the ceremony in which they bring the original copy of their holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, into the temple. I was incredibly lucky to have my accommodations in the dorm. That morning as I walked out of the guarded dorm I saw hundreds of families sprawled out in neat rows in the courtyard.

I got a lot of writing done on the local bus trying to Dharamsala. Apparently the only direct bus leaves at 12 and I got to the station just after it left. The best I can do is go to Gugal, take a bus to Dharamsala and a taxi the rest of the way to McLeod Gang, which is Upper Dharamsala. The broiling bus broke down a couple of hours out and after half an hour of hammering something under the bus we hit the road again only to break down for over two hours because of a diesel leak. I skipped the final bus and split a cab with an unmarried Indian couple out on a date directly to McLeod Ganj.

Crossing into Himachal Pradesh was like a big sigh. It was suddenly forested and hilly and the air was fresh and cool. My first impression of McLeod Ganj was that it's exactly what I'm not looking for. It was full of loud western music and loud westerners and Indians gone wild. I found out later there was a rock concert at the square. I checked into a hotel and stepped outside and heard a woman with a kick ass voice singing Hotel California from the restaurant next door so I went up for a quick dinner. The music was great and then I picked myself up and horned my way onto a table of Tibetans and had an amazing time. I already have a gig volunteering to teach a seminar on networking. I felt a lot better about my miserable ride into town when putting it into perspective of being raised in an orphanage or walking for two weeks as a child in the snow to escape an occupying force. I think I'm staying for a week.

















1 comment:

sujay said...

4th pic: Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and cauldron bubble.

Loving your posts cuz - fantastic pics and prose...